Re: How do you differentiate & organize your shooting head line weights?


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Posted by GES on 2010-09-02 13:25:43 in reply to How do you differentiate & organize your shooting head line weights? posted by Richard on 2010-09-02 11:01:48

Well I use the standard elecrical Resistor color code.
0/black, 1/brown, 2/red, 3/orange, 4/yellow, 5/green, 6/blue, 7/violet, 8/grey, 9/white .

So I have Nymo fly tying thread in all of those colors, and I use the appropriate color when I wrap the ends of the braided loops I put on my lines. I don't do the nail knot thing, I whip the end of the braid where it merges with the fly line.

I only do the last digit of the line number so red (2) is used for both #2 and #12 lines.

If you can't tell the difference between a #2 and a #12 line; try knitting as a hobby instead; well that wouldn't work either because you would never get the needle sizes straight; maybe cooking or needlepoint.

On grain weighted heads; like the SA Deep Water Express, or the various RIO sinking heads, I put loops on both ends so they could be different colors.

The wrap at the shooting line end of the head would be the main line weight; say green for a 500 grain head and the leader end would be a black if it was a 500 grain, or another green if it was a 550 grain.

I once worked out a system, where I could add rings to code the sink rate or the taper; black (0) for a level line, brown for a shooting head (single taper), red for a double taper, orange for a WF, and so forth.

Then the line manufacturers went nuts, and there are too many types to color code. So I just use line number or grain weight. I store all lines except LC-13, or T-14-11-8 on their original spools in their original boxes. Lead and tungsten heads just go in snadwich zip bags.

George


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